County Westmeath / Leinster
The lakeland heart of Ireland, anchored by Athlone on the Shannon and the great sweep of Lough Ree. A revived food scene, Belvedere's jealous folly, Fore Abbey's seven wonders, and a position at the exact centre of the country that makes it the natural crossroads of Ireland.
Ireland's Ancient East
Westmeath is the lake county of the midlands, anchored by Athlone on the Shannon and the great lake of Lough Ree stretching north. Athlone has undergone a remarkable revival - the west bank of the Shannon has been transformed, Sean's Bar claims to be the oldest pub in Ireland (and might actually be), and the restaurant scene is now one of the best outside the major cities.
The county beyond Athlone has more to offer than the drive-through traffic realises. Belvedere House and Gardens on Lough Ennell is a beautifully restored Georgian estate with a story of family jealousy and a Jealous Wall that is one of the largest follies in Ireland. Mullingar is a substantial market town with good food. Fore Abbey, tucked into a valley near the Westmeath-Meath border, is one of the most atmospheric monastic sites in the country, with seven wonders that locals will happily explain.
Athlone is the hub. It sits on the M6 motorway between Dublin and Galway, making it one of the best-connected towns in Ireland. Mullingar is on the N4/M4 between Dublin and Sligo. Both are genuine bases rather than just stopovers. A car is needed for the countryside but the towns are walkable.
Below you'll find my complete Westmeath intelligence - where to base yourself, what's genuinely worth your time, and the practical stuff that the tourism brochures conveniently skip. Everything from first-hand experience.
The places worth your time
The places that make Westmeath worth the drive. Arranged by genuine impact, not alphabetical order.
A town split by the Shannon with a castle, a revived west bank food quarter, and a claim to Ireland's oldest pub. Sean's Bar has been serving since 900 AD, apparently. The castle houses a good visitor centre. The Left Bank district has excellent restaurants. The Shannon here is wide and slow, and cruiser hire is available for exploring Lough Ree. Athlone has reinvented itself and it shows.
A Georgian hunting lodge on the shore of Lough Ennell with restored gardens, a walled garden, and the Jealous Wall - a massive folly built by the earl to block the view of his brother's larger house. The family story is a saga of jealousy, imprisonment, and scandal. The gardens are beautiful. The parkland walks along the lake are excellent. Allow a couple of hours.
A ruined Benedictine priory in a valley near the Meath border, famous for its Seven Wonders - including water that flows uphill, wood that will not burn, and a stone raised by St Fechin's prayers. The wonders are a mix of geology and faith, but the setting is genuinely atmospheric. The abbey complex includes a 12th-century church, the priory ruins, and a town gate. Free access, rarely crowded.
One of the three great Shannon lakes, stretching between Westmeath and Roscommon. Less visited than Lough Derg but equally beautiful. Islands with monastic ruins, good fishing, and a sailing tradition based out of Athlone. The Inner Lakes walk near Glasson is a pleasant loop. The lake is big enough to feel like an inland sea on a breezy day.
Athlone for food and the Shannon. Mullingar for Belvedere and Fore. Glasson for lakeside tranquility.
The best base in the county and one of the best small-town food destinations in Ireland. The Left Bank has several excellent restaurants. Sean's Bar is a must-visit. The castle and the Shannon are the landmarks. Good accommodation range. Central for reaching both Galway and Dublin in under two hours.
The county town with a substantial high street, good restaurants, and proximity to Belvedere House and Fore Abbey. The Cathedral of Christ the King is worth a look. Less tourist-focused than Athlone but functional and well-connected. Joe Dolan's hometown - the bronze statue outside the Greville Arms is a local landmark.
A tiny village on the shores of Lough Ree, about ten minutes from Athlone. The Glasson Lakehouse is one of the best boutique hotels in the midlands. The village has a couple of good restaurants and the lakeside walks are beautiful. Quieter and more atmospheric than Athlone.
About 1.5 hours to Athlone via the M6, or 1 hour 15 minutes to Mullingar via the M4. Both are fast motorway drives. Westmeath is the gateway to the west.
About 1.5 hours to Athlone via the M6. Athlone is the halfway point between Dublin and Galway, which is part of its appeal.
Irish Rail runs Dublin to Galway and Dublin to Westport via Athlone. Dublin to Mullingar is on the Sligo line. Both stations are central. About 1.5 hours from Dublin to Athlone. Excellent rail connectivity for a midlands county.
Frequent Dublin to Galway services via Athlone. Dublin to Sligo via Mullingar. CityLink, Bus Eireann, and GoBus all serve Athlone. One of the best-connected midlands counties by public transport.
May through September for the best weather. Athlone works year-round as a food destination. The Shannon cruising season runs April to October. Belvedere's gardens peak in summer. Fore Abbey is atmospheric in any weather.
Athlone has the best range. Glasson Lakehouse is the boutique gem. Mullingar is practical with good mid-range options.
A lakeside boutique hotel on the shores of Lough Ree, ten minutes from Athlone. The restaurant uses local and seasonal produce. The views across the lake are beautiful. Rooms are well-designed and the atmosphere is relaxed. One of the best small hotels in the midlands and proof that the middle of Ireland has its own kind of luxury.
Good range in Athlone from budget to four-star. Mullingar has several options. Glasson Lakehouse is the boutique standout. Hodson Bay near Athlone has a spa and lakeside setting.
Solid options in both towns and around the lakes. Lakeside B&Bs around Lough Ennell and Lough Ree are the draw. Prices are very reasonable.
Shannon-side and lakeside cottages are available. Athlone's position on the cruising route means there are good options for those arriving by boat.
Westmeath was carved from the larger county of Meath in 1543, and the two counties share much of their early history. The Dillon, Nugent, and Tyrrell families were the dominant Anglo-Norman lords. The Shannon crossing at Athlone made it strategically vital in every Irish conflict. If your surname is Dillon, Nugent, Tyrrell, Lynch, or Fagan, the Westmeath connection is worth investigating.