Ring of Kerry: The Complete Driving Guide
The Ring of Kerry is 179 kilometres of coast road around the Iveragh Peninsula in south-west Ireland. It is probably the most famous driving route in the country. The scenery is extraordinary - mountains dropping into the Atlantic, stone forts on headlands, lakes that change colour with the clouds. But the reality of driving it in summer involves coaches, tour buses, and the occasional standoff on a narrow bend.
This is not a warning to avoid it. The Ring of Kerry earned its reputation honestly. But you need a plan. Drive the right direction, start early, and know where the coaches cannot follow you. Do that and you will see why people have been making this loop for over a century. Kerry at its best is as good as anywhere in Europe.
What to Expect
The single most important thing to know is direction. Drive clockwise - Killarney to Kenmare first, then along the coast via Sneem, Waterville, and Cahersiveen. Tour coaches travel anticlockwise by convention. Going clockwise means you stay ahead of them on the narrow sections and your passenger gets the sea-side views.
From Kenmare the N70 hugs the coast. The first stretch to Sneem is gentle and pretty. Sneem itself is a good coffee stop. Beyond Sneem the road opens up and the Atlantic appears properly. Derrynane Beach near Caherdaniel is worth the short detour - one of the best beaches in Kerry.
Waterville is the halfway mark and a natural lunch stop. Charlie Chaplin used to holiday here. The town is functional rather than beautiful, but the seafood is good.
The Skellig Ring is the detour the coaches cannot do. It branches off the main N70 near Waterville and loops through Ballinskelligs and Portmagee before rejoining near Cahersiveen. The road is too narrow for large vehicles. This section has the best views of the Skellig Islands and a fraction of the traffic.
From Cahersiveen the road turns inland through Killorglin and back to Killarney. The final stretch along the N72 passes Ladies View and Molls Gap - two of the most famous viewpoints in Ireland. Ladies View looks down over the Lakes of Killarney. It is worth stopping even if the car park is busy.
The honest negative: in July and August the main road between Killorglin and Waterville can feel like a procession. Coaches pull over at every viewpoint and the queue behind them builds. The Skellig Ring detour solves this, but only for that section. If you are here in peak summer, start early or accept the traffic.
How to Get There
Killarney is the default starting point. It is the largest town in the area and has the most accommodation. The town is roughly 300 km from Dublin (3.5 hours) and 110 km from Cork (1.5 hours). Kerry Airport is 20 minutes north of Killarney with flights from Dublin and some UK airports.
Kenmare is the alternative base - quieter, better food, and you start the loop halfway round. It is a 30-minute drive from Killarney via the N71 over Molls Gap.
You need a car. There is no way to do the full Ring of Kerry independently by public transport. Bus Eireann runs a Killarney to Cahersiveen service but it follows only part of the route. Day tours from Killarney cover the highlights in 6-7 hours if you prefer not to drive.
Where to Stay Nearby
Killarney has the widest range of accommodation in Kerry. Kenmare is smaller and more upmarket. For something different, base in Cahersiveen or Waterville on the western side of the peninsula - you will have the evening light on the Atlantic.
At the entrance to the Gap of Dunloe with views of the MacGillycuddy Reeks. Pool, spa, and gardens. The setting is hard to beat.
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A Note on the History
The Iveragh Peninsula has been settled for over 4,000 years. The Ring of Kerry passes several stone forts - Cahergall and Leacanabuaile near Cahersiveen are the most accessible. Staigue Fort near Sneem is a massive circular stone enclosure dating to the Iron Age. It sits in a valley with no one else around, which tells you something about how Kerry distributes its visitors.
Daniel O'Connell, "The Liberator" who campaigned for Catholic emancipation, was born at Cahersiveen and grew up at Derrynane House. The house is now a museum and the surrounding parkland is beautiful. It is one of the most undervisited stops on the Ring.
Frequently Asked Questions
