County Derry / Ulster
Ireland's best-preserved walled city and a county that stretches from the cultural energy of Derry to the empty beaches of the north coast and the lonely Sperrins. Mussenden Temple on its clifftop, seven miles of sand at Benone, and a city that has turned its complicated history into something genuinely compelling for visitors.
Northern Ireland
As a child of the 70s and 80s in Northern Ireland, Derry was sadly associated with division and the Troubles. What has never changed is that the people of Derry are possibly some of the most friendly people in the north. I have a friend who lives in the city and it gives me great pleasure to visit her occasionally, particularly to explore the ever-growing cafe and restaurant scene. The city walls are the most complete set in Ireland or Britain - you can walk the full circuit in under an hour and look down into both sides of a city that has been shaped by division but refuses to be defined by it.
Beyond the city, the county stretches from the Sperrins in the south to the north coast beaches at Benone and Magilligan. I have stayed near the beach at Limavady in one of the best four or five star hotels in the north, and the north coast between Limavady and Downhill is genuinely spectacular. Mussenden Temple perched on a cliff edge above Benone Strand is one of the most dramatic sights in Ireland, and most people think it is in Antrim. I recommend you include Derry on any trip that includes the north in a loop.
The name question: the city is officially Londonderry, but most people - including most people who live there - call it Derry. The county is officially County Londonderry. For a travel audience, Derry is the name you will hear and use. Do not overthink this. The city is walkable and compact. For the county beyond, you need a car.
Below you'll find my complete Derry intelligence - where to base yourself, what's genuinely worth your time, and the practical stuff that the tourism brochures conveniently skip. Everything from first-hand experience.
The places worth your time
The places that make Derry worth the drive. Arranged by genuine impact, not alphabetical order.
Walk the full circuit, look down into both sides of the city, and you begin to understand why this place matters. Built 1613-1619, never breached, cannons still in place. Take a little tour and find out why the people of Derry are so highly rated. <a href="/destinations/derrys-city-walls">Read my full city walls guide</a> for the best route and why a guide transforms the experience.
Read the guide 8 min read
A small rotunda perched on a cliff 120 feet above the Atlantic, built in 1785 as a library by the eccentric Earl Bishop. Benone Strand stretches below. On a clear day, you can see Donegal, the Antrim coast, and Scotland. One of the most photographed buildings in Ireland. <a href="/destinations/mussenden-temple-downhill-demesne">My Mussenden Temple guide</a> covers access, weather tips, and the cliff erosion situation.
Read the guide 7 min read
Seven miles of flat, hard sand backed by dunes and with Mussenden Temple visible on the cliff above. One of the best beaches in Ireland and rarely crowded. I have stayed near the beach at Limavady and the north coast never disappoints. <a href="/destinations/benone-strand">See my Benone Strand guide</a> for parking, facilities, and swimming tips.
Read the guide 6 min read
Twelve large murals painted on the gable ends of houses in the Bogside, depicting key moments from the Troubles. The People's Gallery is one of the most powerful pieces of public art in Europe. Walk it with a local guide - the context transforms what you see. <a href="/destinations/bogside-murals">Read my Bogside Murals guide</a> for tour options and what to expect.
Read the guide 7 min read
The largest upland area in Northern Ireland and one of the emptiest landscapes on the island. Bog, heather, and skylines that go on forever. If you want solitude and big views without another soul in sight, this is it. <a href="/destinations/sperrin-mountains">My Sperrin Mountains guide</a> covers walking routes, Beaghmore Stone Circles, and the dark sky park.
Read the guide 8 min readDerry city is the obvious base and rewards at least two nights. If you are focused on the coast, Limavady puts you closer to the beaches.
The natural base and a genuine city-break destination in its own right. The walled city is compact and walkable. The restaurant scene has grown significantly - Pyke 'N' Pommes, Browns in Town, and the Walled City Brewery are worth seeking out. The Ebrington area across the Peace Bridge has new bars and galleries. Stay at least two nights to do it justice.
A pleasant market town between Derry and the north coast. Good base for Benone Strand, Mussenden Temple, and the Roe Valley Country Park. The town itself is quiet but has decent pubs and a few restaurants. Closer to the coast attractions than staying in Derry city.
A small town at the foot of the Sperrins with a remarkable Augustinian priory and O'Cahan tomb. Practical base for walking in the Sperrins and a quieter alternative to the coast. Accommodation is limited but what exists is good value.
Small airport at Eglinton, 15 minutes from the city. Limited routes - mainly London and some seasonal services. Belfast International (1.5 hours) and Dublin Airport (3 hours) offer far more options. Worth checking Derry airport first as it is extremely convenient if your route exists.
About 3 hours via the A5/N2 through Monaghan and Omagh, or slightly longer via the M1 and A6 through Belfast. The Omagh route is more scenic and avoids Belfast traffic. You cross the border without noticing.
About 1.5 hours via the A6 through Toome and Dungiven. Fast, well-maintained road. The stretch through the Sperrins is scenic. Alternatively, the coastal route via the A2 through Coleraine takes longer but is beautiful.
Translink runs Belfast to Derry several times daily. About 2 hours 15 minutes. The route runs along the north coast through Coleraine and is one of the most scenic rail journeys in Ireland - sit on the left side heading to Derry for the coastal views.
Translink Goldline runs Belfast to Derry frequently. About 1 hour 40 minutes via the A6 - faster than the train. Aircoach and Bus Eireann connect to Dublin. The bus station is right in the city centre on Foyle Street.
May through September for the best weather. The north coast catches sun when the rest of Ulster is grey - Benone can feel almost Mediterranean on a good day (do not bring Mediterranean expectations). The city works year-round, and the Halloween festival in late October is genuinely one of the best in Europe.
Derry city's hotel scene has improved enormously since the City of Culture year. The coast offers beach-adjacent self-catering. The Sperrins are quiet country B&Bs.
A beautifully restored building inside the walls, on the site of the old bishop's palace. The best hotel in the city by some distance - elegant rooms, excellent bar, and a location that puts you in the heart of things. The rooftop terrace has views across the city. Worth the premium over the chain hotels.
Derry city has a growing hotel scene - Bishop's Gate is the standout. Roe Park near Limavady is good for the coast. Outside these, options are limited.
Good options in and around the city. The Saddler's House and Merchant's House in the city centre are both excellent and book up quickly. Coastal B&Bs near Benone are good value.
Beachfront properties at Benone and Castlerock are popular for families. Book well ahead for July and August. The Sperrins area has a few rural cottages.
Derry's heritage story spans the plantation, the Famine, mass emigration, and the Troubles. The city was built as a plantation project - the London guilds who funded it are the reason for the Londonderry name. The county beyond was heavily planted with Scottish settlers, creating the complex identity that persists today. Emigration from the northwest through Derry's port was massive in the 18th and 19th centuries. If your surname is Doherty, McLaughlin, O'Kane, Bradley, or Mullan, the connection to this county is strong.